Thursday, 7th October 2010
As we left Phantom Ranch the route lay along a meandering path closely hemmed in by vertical canyon walls, which added to the darkness of a 5.50am start! After 20 minutes or so we were able to switch the torches off, as the light gradually made its way into the canyon. With an easy gradient for the first 7 miles there was time to enjoy the constantly changing scene and to see the colours come to life as the sun hit the tops of the canyon walls. After a stop at Cottonwood camp ground - for second breakfast - we continued along the steeper second half of the route. With quite a slow pace there was plenty of time to take in the magnificent views, rock formations and colours. Photographs could not do justice - but I took enough to make a good attempt at capturing what I could see. Turning into Roaring Springs Canyon we could finally see North Rim - with some rather dark clouds above it! Some precipitous sections added to the adventure and the sheer thrill of the day almost made one forget the angle of ascent. The weather was perfect, being somewhat cooler than normal after the rain and storms of the previous couple of days. Although we had expected the North Rim to be colder than the South Rim, stepping out onto the trail head at 8,300 feet, with a cold wind blowing, we were sent scurrying into our packs to retrieve the warmer clothes we had carried. When everyone had been welcomed to the top our walk to the coach was spurred on by the promise of a 'Champagne Celebration'.
The Grand Canyon Lodge was one of the best (if not The Best) hotels of the whole trip. From the Reception area a wonderful viewing room gave fantastic views over the Grand Canyon. The dining room, with its high ceilings was just like a banqueting hall. Being the only building in the area the ambience was one to revel in, so different from the 'touristy' character of the South Rim.
The North Kaibab Trail is the only maintained trail into the Canyon from the North Rim. It takes you 14 miles and nearly 6,000 feet of descent from its trailhead to its terminus at Bright Angel Campground and the Colorado River. The trail is well maintained and easy to follow throughout its entire length. The first five miles are the steepest, descending 3,000 feet along the edge of Roaring Springs Canyon and crossing a seasonal stream several times. A long section is hollowed out of the vertical cliffs of the Redwall limestone layer, and has sheer drop-offs on one side. Bright Angel Canyon continues descending gradually for 7 miles to the river.
Because of the high elevation
of the North Rim, the North Kaibab Trail is only fully open (usually) between
mid May and October. The path is rather longer than the more popular South Rim
routes as the buttes, peaks and side canyons extend much further north of the
river than south, hence the paved entrance road along the flat Kaibab Plateau
cannot approach as close - from the north rim visitor centre it is over 6
horizontal miles to the Colorado whereas the south rim road is often only 2
miles away.
We are 15 minutes into the walk before it is light enough to take a photo . . .
and I am anxious to capture the nature of the twists and turns . . .
of the canyon walls
Gradually the route opens up . . .
and it is time to put the torches away and adjust the layers . . .
as the path continues beside Bright Angel Creek
A side canyon whose worn rocks indicate the presence of a stream in wet weather . . .
but our path is clear . . .
as it crosses the creek . . .
a number of times
The canyon has only widened a little . . .
and often it is impossible to see the path too far ahead
This time a bridge takes us across the creek . . .
and there is evidence of a much wider spread of water on this bend
The morning light is now hitting the higher rocks . . .
but here I am fascinated by the different layers of rocks
As the canyon becomes wider . . .
the sun reaches further down the canyon walls . . .
and more rock strata can be seen
Even dead trees . . .
add to the atmosphere . . .
as we cross the creek again . . .
and catch the sun's rays on a west wall
The magical scenes . . .
continue to delight
Spotting some large rocks on the ground . . .
we only need to look up to see where they have come from
Could this be called 'Fractured Rock' . . .
and 'The Pinnacle' perhaps?
Continuing to wend our way through the canyon . . .
the sun catches a small waterfall . . .
The bridge across Bright Angel Creek . . .
marks the point that we start to make our way . . .
towards Roaring Springs Canyon
The prickly pear basks in the sunshine . . .
sporting some colourful fruit
Look closely in the centre of the photo . . .
to spot the helicopter . . .
near the Waterman's House
Continuing into Roaring Springs Canyon . . .
we soon spot the waterfall . . .
from which the name was derived . . .
Roaring Springs waterfall
It seems a shame to leave Bright Angel Creek (on the right) . . .
but this amphitheatre . . .
and the coloured rock face make up for the change in direction
Looking ahead it's almost impossible to see . . .
the people walking up the zig zags . . .
but looking back down from them . . .
the path can clearly be seen
This rock formation is known as The Needle . . .
and it does have some sharp points on top!
The path zig zags down to the bridge . . .
across to the other side of the canyon . . .
and more spectacular views
Design for pyjamas????
We are pleased to reach . . .
the Supai Tunnel . . .
before a brief stop . . .
at a 'water spot'
Could almost be John Wayne . . .
leading a mule train
and we head into the trees . . .
as we make our way . . .
to the top of the canyon . . .
where Kath reaches the trail head . . .
followed by Marie . . .
Nina and Geoff . . .
Jan . . .
Duncan and Sheila . . .
Eunice . . .
John . . .
Pat and Sean . . .
Bonnie . . .
and Julia
A lovely couple that we met at the water stop
Our accommodation at Grand Canyon Lodge